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A MANCHU WOMAN'S RED-GROUND GAUZE SILK EMBROIDERED ROBE, CHANGYI Late 19th century
英国
2023年05月18日 开拍 / 2023年05月16日 截止委托
拍品描述
A MANCHU WOMAN'S RED-GROUND GAUZE SILK EMBROIDERED ROBE, CHANGYI
Late 19th century
The robe finely embroidered in satin stitch on the front and back panels with various sprigs of wisteria, depicted in the form of various cascading blooms, interspersed with multi-coloured fluttering butterflies, the insects repeated on the collar and cuffs alternating with blossoming peonies and prunus, all picked out in vibrant shades of pink, blue, turquoise and green against a coral red ground, the black border decorated with fish swimming in a lotus pond.
136.5cm (53 6/8in) long.
十九世紀晚期 紅地納紗繡花蝶紋敞衣

Provenance: an English private collection

來源:英國私人收藏

Elegantly tailored with narrow sleeves and wide borders, and embroidered with designs of flowering wisteria, the present robe is replete with auspicious symbolism conveying wishes for long life and displays the typical fashion trends followed by young Manchu noblewomen associated with the Court of the Empress Dowager Cixi.

Clothing was a critical means of self-expression for the empress dowager and every other woman at the Court. Her fondness for auspicious designs was in line with the visual culture of the time and the decorative subjects on the garments were often based on paintings attributed to the Dowager. The blossoming prunus is both symbolic of fortitude, since it blossoms in the depths of winter, as well as longevity, and the inclusion of butterflies die reinforces the idea of long life, as it is a homonym for a septuagenarian or octogenarian. Symbolic of longevity because of the length of their blossoms and their stems, the wisteria was a highly-favoured flower by the dowager empress and became the main decorative subject of numerous paintings attributed to the Empress, robes and Dayazhai porcelain wares, named after the Hall within the Forbidden City where the Dowager Empress lived. A 1903 oil portrait of Dowager Empress by American artist Katherine Augusta Carl, in the collection of the Palace Museum, Beijing, depicts the Empress seated on a throne, wearing a yellow-ground robe decorated with a profusion of blossoming wisteria.

Compare with a related green-ground silk gauze robe, circa 1900, embroidered with wisteria, butterflies and peonies, illustrated in Secret Splendors of the Chinese Court. Qing Dynasty Costume from the Charlotte Hill Grant Collection, Denver, 1981, no.1977.212. See also a coral-red ground silk robe, 19th century, decorated with butterflies and peonies, illustrated by Valery Garrett, Chinese Dress: from the Qing Dynasty to the Present, Claredon VT, 2008, fig.82.

A related purple-ground silk robe, late 19th century, embroidered with butterflies and floral sprigs, was sold at Christie's New York, 19 March 2008, lot 93.

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拍品估价:5,000 - 7,000 英镑 起拍价格:5,000 英镑  买家佣金:
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