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A ‘KESI’ CEREMONIAL ROBE (JIFU), 19TH CENTURY
Very finely and exquisitely rendered, this ceremonial garment is of full length with horsehoof cuffs, decorated with eight dragons on the exterior and a ninth dragon hidden on the underflap, woven in muted tones of blue, brown, green and gold, 51.5" x 69.5" — 130.8 x 176.5 cm.
Provenance:
From an Important Private Collection, Toronto
Note:
Kesi, literally meaning ‘cut silk’, is a silk tapestry technique where one set of warp ends is woven with a discontinuous weft of different colours in a tabby weave. Kesi originated from wool tapestry, and was adapted to silk weaving in the Tang dynasty, maintaining popularity from the Song until the Qing dynasty. In 2009, the kesi silk making technique was registered with the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The technique is time consuming and requires much skill, resulting in a fine art piece. Because of its production costs and delicate nature, the use of kesi in robes is only exemplified in official apparel of imperial Ming and Qing courts. Officials of the first, second and third ranks wore ceremonial robes with nine dragons, while those of fourth and lower ranks wore fewer than nine dragons. The present example is vented in the front and back, indicating it is a male jifu.
Estimate: $4,000—6,000
