Of black silk, centered on front and back with a couched gold thread and silk-embroidered civil rank badge, possibly a fourth-rank wild goose, among exotic flying birds and gold scrolled clouds, above a pair of multicolored and gold four-clawed dragons to the from, a larger dragon and flaming pearl verso, above peony and lotus blossoms, and "dragon-fish", all above a lishui skirt of varying tones of gold, the sleeves with couched-gold phoenix and dragons, above colorful lishui and flowers

PROVENANCE:

The estate of a WWII veteran
Acquired from the above by the present owner.

The present surcoat is unusual in that the V-shaped hem relates to the Han Chinese style formal vest "xiabei", which often also had a net and fringe border. The present garment does not appear to have been originally a vest as the silk bodice and sleeves are continuous, and the quality of the needlework is high throughout. For a xiabei vase and discussion of the form, see Mary M. Dusenbury et al, "Flowers, Dragons, and Pine Trees, Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art", Manchester, 2004, pp. 134-135, no. 43.